Great Lakes 101

In September 2020, after those months of lockdown, I spent a glorious day visiting my best friend from college. It was one of those visits of the time; we visited almost exclusively outdoors. We were sitting on a bench having a late summer ice cream cone and she said, “You guys might really like this show I’ve been watching. It’s a total delight. It’s called Joe Pera Talks With You and it’s on Adult Swim”. I remember asking her to repeat that last part…  I’d never heard of the streaming service before. But my husband and I hunted it down, and what a gift it was.  

Joe Pera is a comedian with a slow, earnest, mumbly delivery and persona that he seems to retain in all public interactions and presentations; any separate persona seems unknown. Joe Pera Talks With You evolved out of his stand-up comedy, debuting in late 2018. Critics and general watchers praised the show.

In it he plays a gentle middle school choir teacher (named Joe Pera) in Marquette on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (the UP). Each short episode tends to revolve around a topic that Joe is talking with you about. He speaks directly to you, the audience, about things ranging from rocks and minerals to cold weather sports to how to write an obituary. Between monologues on these topics, there are storylines of Joe’s quiet, content life on the UP. We’re with him as a friendship grows into a romantic relationship with a fellow teacher who is also an apocalypse-prepper. Joe’s beloved Nana passes away. Joe navigates a friendship with his neighbors, the Melskys, who are kind and also a little rough around the edges. 

The show is slow, meditative, absurd, funny, off-beat. Frankly, the show is a lot like the UP as I experienced it in our summer 2022 visit. Our visit was inspired in great part by watching the show which was filmed on location in Marquette. One of the best episodes (S3:E1) revolves around Joe helping his friend Gene pick out a new “retirement chair”. When we were in Marquette we were so excited to drive by the furniture store where the episode was filmed. I hope you might have the chance to watch the episode and appreciate its simple joys.

Almost exactly a year ago, the show’s cancellation was announced after the third season. Although we’ve all built a thick skin for the fleeting world of television shows, my friend and I exchanged texts lamenting our collective loss. A New York Times writer in an article on the slate of TV cancellations late in 2022 wrote that the cancellation of Joe Pera Talks With You “stings the most” and concluded with a turn of opinion that remains so memorable to me: “We live in a time of relatively abundant television, and plenty of it is good, but very little of it is special. ‘Joe Pera Talks With You’ was though, a free verse Midwestern ode to tenderness and wonder”.

You can find Joe Pera Talks With You on Max, Hulu and Amazon Prime.

In the first episode of the show Joe stands in front of the Lower Harbor Ore Dock in downtown Marquette explaining the history of iron ore. We felt the same awe and reverence in summer 2022.

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Today I’m starting a series of posts that will take us on a tour of the Great Lakes. We’ll take our time; I will have an introductory post to each lake and then subsequent related posts before moving to the next one. 

We’re going to move west to east, as the waters flow, starting with Lake Superior.

As I wrote in my post “The Great Lakes as The Breakfast Club”, Lake Superior is the largest Great Lake in surface area, the deepest and the coldest. 

In fact, Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake by surface area in the world, and it could hold the water from all four of the other Great Lakes plus three more Lake Eries. It is thus not surprising to learn that the Ojibwe name for Lake Superior is Gitchi-Gami, which translates to “great sea”.

Ontario, Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan surround Lake Superior. The largest city on the lake is Thunder Bay, Ontario, home of many minor and major league ice hockey players and apparently the birthplace of the 60s rock band Buffalo Springfield “Think it’s time we stop children – what’s that sound… everybody look what’s goin’ down…”. The largest island in Lake Superior is Isle Royale, a national park and the site of one of the most famous ecological experiments in the world – that of the wolves and moose which I wrote about back in June. Lake Superior is large enough that it is rare for it to completely freeze over. 2014 was the last time it came close, with 91% ice coverage. 

I saw Lake Superior for the first time in July 2022 when we visited Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (the UP). We were there during a heat wave and we swam in the lake off Presque Isle Park near Marquette. The water was, even at the height of summer, well, I would use the word invigorating. On the downside, I would describe skin stinging. Positively, I would describe feeling the incredible physical impact and full-body sensation of cold. It absolutely made you feel utterly alive.   

If you are inspired by the idea of this incredible northern inland sea, let yourself indulge in the idea and poke around the Lake Superior Circle Tour Adventure Guide website. The tour is a 1,300 mile self guided tour all the way around the lake. RV trip anyone? Would be amazing.

My greatest Lake Superior fantasy? A future trip I’ve penciled in for Summer 2027 to Duluth, Minnesota (America’s Best Town in America per Outside Magazine in 2021 and home of the Great Lakes Aquarium) and then several days spent kayaking around the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin. Can’t wait to see Superior again. 

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Something happened last week that has not happened since 1968. A strike shut down 13 locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway between Lake Erie and Montreal trapping boats in the shipping artery and preventing others from entering on either end. 

brown and white cargo ship

Workers with Unifor, Canada’s largest private-sector union, walked out on October 22nd. They were in a dispute over wages with the St. Lawrence Seaway Management Corp. A deal was reached one week later on October 29th, but reflecting on the impact of the strike makes clear the under-discussed prowess of the Great Lakes economy.

The Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence Seaway carried over $12 billion of cargo in 2022; estimates were that the strike last week caused a loss of $100-110 million per day. On Wednesday, October 25th, Seaway management reported around 115 vessels that were stuck in the St. Lawrence river or Lake Ontario. Other vessels stalled included a U.S. Naval Warship, the littoral combat ship the USS Marinette, that sat in Cleveland’s port waiting to head into international waters.

This is a particularly busy time of year on the Lakes and Seaway given the fall harvest season. Of great concern was the hold-up of grain shipments that were headed to destinations around the globe. Grain shipments from the Great Lakes regions have been growing in recent years. In November 2022, the Great Lakes Seaway Partnership announced that grain shipments were up almost 25% from 2021. This increase is due in part to the war in Ukraine and changing climate patterns in other grain producing areas. 

agriculture arable barley blur

An article in the Detroit Free Press last week during the strike reflected the wide economic impact: “We have grain that feeds the world that’s not moving. We have salt that goes on winter roads for safety that’s not moving. We have iron ore for steelmaking that’s not moving,” said Jason Card, spokesman for the binational Chamber of Marine Commerce in Ottawa.

While an article from Great Lakes Now reflected a very human position: “We want a fair and decent wage that shows the value our members bring. There’s a lot of labor unrest in North America right now and people are sick and tired of the ivory tower people getting everything while the rest of us get peanuts,” said Unifor spokesman John Hockey.

Economic interconnectedness reflects human interconnectedness. Human interconnectedness reflects the ways individual people understand how they, and their talents and labor, matter. May we always remain mindful of this as we navigate our daily lives and communities and ponder wider global dynamics.

abstract close up cobweb connection

Credit for all pictures today: pexels.com

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Earlier this month the Alliance for the Great Lakes Ambassador program (of which I am a part), held a monthly “deep dive” session on environmental justice.

judgement scale and gavel in judge office

According to the US Commission on Civil Rights, environmental justice is: 

… the fair treatment of people of all races, income, and cultures with respect to the development, implementation and enforcement of environmental laws, regulations, and policies, and their meaningful involvement in the decision-making processes of the government.

The truth is that many people are not afforded access to safe and clean water from the Great Lakes and are not protected from the pollution that is a byproduct of the lake economies, or the adverse dynamics of the lakes and their waterways. Disproportionately affected are low-income communities and communities of color.  

Two storylines from Chicago starkly illustrate this reality.

buildings near body of water

The first is an opinion article on the Alliance’s website from 2019, “Flooding Hits Hardest in Chicago’s Communities of Color”. For a variety of reasons, many Great Lakes cities struggle with stormwater management. Flooding can bring any number of health or economic challenges to individuals already facing many. The article details flooding that occurs in the city’s Southeast neighborhoods during and after severe storms. Some of these neighborhoods are highly industrial and so floodwaters may bring toxic hazards as they run over Superfund and brownfields sites. 

For me, the statistics below speak for themselves: 

{In Chicago} Just thirteen zip codes represent nearly three-fourths of all flood insurance claims. Over three-quarters of a million residents live here – including 200,000 children and 100,000 elderly. Over a quarter of households are below the poverty line. And 93% are households headed by a person of color.

By contrast, seventeen Chicago zip codes had the fewest flood claim payments between 2007 and 2016 (less than one percent combined). Only 30 percent of residents in these areas are people of color.

The second storyline is one I heard though an interview on the Alliance’s podcast, Lakes Chat, in 2022. Oscar Sanchez is the Community Planning Manager with the Southeast Environmental Task Force.

In his role, Mr. Sanchez was part of a group of activists who fought the relocation of General Iron, a metal sheeting company in Lincoln Park on the north side of Chicago (General Iron has now rebranded as Southside Recycling). General Iron had a large number of violations including for air pollution and questionable operations. The local community (mostly white, more affluent) no longer wanted General Iron as a neighbor. Initially General Iron received support, including incentive funding, from the City of Chicago to relocate to the southeast part of the city (mostly Latino with surrounding Black neighborhoods, not affluent).

But the identified site for relocation was across from a park and a high school and down the street from an elementary school. The local community was a working one where it was hard for people to get involved as they managed day to day struggles. It was, as Mr. Sanchez said, hard for them to fight back, but people were scared. So a coalition of activists from across the community took on the cause. 

After the organized resistance, the city denied the original permit request from General Iron in 2021. This decision was a win for Mr. Sanchez and his local communities in their fight for environmental justice. The win remains a tenuous one; final decisions remain in limbo as General Iron moves their case through the courts (as of September 2023 news articles).

The heart of the matter sits with a question Mr. Sanchez poses in the interview regarding stark differences in city and regional planning and policy between the north side and south side of the city: 

Just because we are poor doesn’t mean we should be treated poorly…  If it’s not good for one community, why is it OK for a different community?    

It’s a worthy question that should be asked again… and again… and again.  

brown leaf
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My mom and I have a 1:1 book club where we read a book at the same time and get together for a couple of videcalls to discuss. We recently read Ann Patchett’s newest novel, Tom Lake, which is set in Northern Michigan. 

opened book

I found one question in a Q & A exchange with Ann Patchett on the blog of the British bookstore Waterstones to be a bit amusing. She was asked “Tom Lake is such a beautiful setting for the novel – is it inspired by anywhere that you have visited?”

She responds: “Yes! The beautiful setting in Traverse City was inspired by beautiful Traverse City, Michigan. I started going there more than twenty years ago when I was sent to the neighboring town of Petoskey, Michigan, on book tour for Bel Canto. Over the years I’ve made close friends in the area. It’s one of my favorite places. When I started writing the book, my friend Erin took me to see a family fruit farm. I wanted to live there.”

Maybe I’ll give the Waterstones writer a little slack since I assume they are British, but it should come as no surprise that beautiful Traverse City (which is named in the novel) was inspired by beautiful Traverse City!

The novel takes place at a summer stock theater on the fictional Tom Lake and on a family cherry farm presumably in the Leelanau County area. As the novel unfolds, the reader becomes familiar with some of the workings of cherry farms, but to learn more, I read a June 2023 article with content developed by Traverse City area Local 9/10 News station about what it takes to grow Michigan’s cherries. 

cherries on a tree
  • 70% of cherries grown in the United States are grown in Michigan totaling over 100M pounds a year. This volume of cherries is valued at about $280M. 
  • There are a number of conditions that make Michigan ideal for growing cherries – notably a soil that drains well. 
  • Maintaining cherry trees is a year-round effort – keeping them protected from mice through the winter, pruning them by hand and fertilizing in the spring, and harvesting in the summer. This can be done by hand or with mechanical shakers.

In the novel, there are a number of characters who are deeply moved by the farm and the land and are eventually shaped by it. This is Ann Patchett’s sweet spot as a writer from my perspective – digging into both the expansiveness and limitations of human emotions and connections. 

Her writing brings the reader there too – laying in the grass, gazing at delicate tree branches and sky with water somewhere not too far away.

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It might seem inconceivable, but I am going to write a post that brings together the topic of the Great Lakes waterway system and Geraldo Rivera.

On August 31, 2023, The New York Times published an article After Fox News, Geraldo Rivera Boats into the Sunset (via Cleveland). The article details Geraldo’s recent journey on his 36-foot luxury motorboat “Belle” from East Hampton, NY, around Manhattan, and into the Hudson River to a route that eventually brought his boat to a marina in Cleveland on Lake Erie. Many of you may not know that Geraldo is one of the more prominent celebrities currently living in Cleveland.

The 8-day journey took Geraldo, his brother, and Belle, through the Erie Canal and 36 locks that would help climb the boat over 600 feet from the waters of the Hudson to Lake Erie. Apparently Geraldo, according to the article, “loves canals”. Who would have guessed?

The article proceeds to intertwine the boat journey with a retrospective of his career (giving credit where due – it’s really an impressive career). But the article reminded me of a question that, not being from a maritime background, I’ve had for a while: How do locks exactly work?

Locks were a very early invention to solve a challenging issue: How do you move boats through a waterway that has elevation change? The earliest basic lock technology dates to China, approximately 900 AD, with the first canal pound lock technology dating to 1373 in the Netherlands. Most locks are built around a watertight container called a lock chamber. There are gates at both ends. Both gates close and a filling valve opens to allow the lock chambers to fill and an emptying valve allows the chamber to empty. Boats can be raised or lowered by the chamber either filling or emptying. 

Geraldo traveled through the Erie Canal, which opened in 1825, and connected the Great Lakes region to the Hudson River. Two years later in 1827 the Ohio & Erie Canal opened to connect Lake Erie to the Mississippi River and in 1829 the Welland Canal opened to solve the challenge of moving boats around Niagara Falls. 

river between brown leafed trees during daytime

The canals were incredible engineering feats of their time. Pause to consider the human labor involved in that era. While they all have had modifications made in the past 200 years, their width and depth still limit the size of ship that can pass through. This led to the Great Lakes vocabulary of “salties” and “lakers”. Salties are ocean-going ships that in the earliest era were able to pass through the Welland Canal, now part of the St. Lawrence Seaway. Lakers are too large, and stay in the lakes, running cargo between Great Lakes ports where it often travels by train thereafter.

While I don’t boat, I could understand Geraldo’s decision at a life turning point to seek a physical passage that would perhaps facilitate an emotional one. I wish him “plain sailing” in the years to come (derived from nautical term meaning: smooth and easy, as in a course of action or future path).

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My family ushered in the summer Memorial Day weekend with a day trip to Kelleys Island in Lake Erie. We closed it out Labor Day weekend with a day trip to Toledo and the National Museum of the Great Lakes. My takeaway from the visit: Immense respect for the role the Great Lakes region played in economy and nation building during the industrial era of the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. The work that happened here was dirty, dangerous, and with hindsight there are plenty of criticisms to lay at the feet of industrialization. But it was an era of ambition and sacrifice and this region, with a variety of rich resources, drove much of the growth and evolution. It was iron ore, coal and limestone that shifted the arc of the industrial age and the Lakes provided the means to move raw material as well as the steel that would build vehicles, railways, infrastructure and eventually skyscrapers across the United States. 

The museum has exhibits on exploration and settlement of the region, expansion and industry, safeguard and support, shipwrecks and safety, and maritime technology. Topics that particularly caught my interest and are worthy of their own posts: the history and role of the U.S. Coast Guard in the region; icebreaking in the Lakes to preserve shipping channels; and the Great Lakes most famous shipwreck – the SS Edmund Fitzgerald in Lake Superior in November of 1975. Stay tuned!

By coming in the summer months, we could also tour two boats docked in the Maumee River next to the museum – the Col. James M. Schoonmaker and the Ohio. The Schoonmaker particularly makes an impression. It’s enormous, austere, and stalwart. At 619 feet long and with a carrying capacity of 12,200 gross tons, it’s not hard to imagine the cavernous cargo hold filled with coal, grains and minerals as the boat plows through Great Lakes waters on routes from Duluth to Detroit to Toledo and back.

Before heading home we had a late lunch at the nationally famous Tony Packo’s Cafe. The restaurant is known for its Hungarian food and over 1,000 hot dog buns signed by celebrities and politicians over the past 50 years that adorn the walls (spoiler: the signed buns look real, but are fake). The restaurant was originally made famous by the character Corporal Maxwell Klinger in M*A*S*H, who referenced Tony Packo’s six times in the series (the actor Jamie Farr was from Toledo). 

The Midwest is often the brunt of jokes, overlooked, or underappreciated. It’s a region with numerous challenges of a wide variety. But it is a place – one with character, heart, and a rich history that I want my girls to know, analyze, and respect. 

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In an earlier post on the impact of climate change on the Great Lakes, I shared very real challenges that the Great Lakes and region will face in the years ahead. I closed the post foreshadowing this post on a different question: Will the Great Lakes be a climate refuge?

The International Economic Partnership estimates that 1.2 billion people will be displaced by climate change by 2050. In the United States, access to water is starting to impact growth in places like Arizona where earlier this year Phoenix had to slow housing construction due to lack of water resources. In the past 20 years over 5,000 people have been killed by major hurricanes. Tornadoes, heat waves and major wildfires have become routine events across the country. There will be a future of climate migrants, “climigrants”, driven to seek new places to live.

withered ground
Photo by James Frid on Pexels.com

There are reasons that climigrants might choose the Great Lakes region:

  1. Fresh water access. Sharing my often repeated fact: The Great Lakes hold 84% of all surface freshwater in North America.
  2. Less extreme weather events than some areas of the country. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has an interactive natural disaster risk map that shows the Great Lakes region as remarkably free of threats compared with much of the country.
  3. Moderating climate. Those famous, frigid Great Lakes winters? They still happen, but temperatures are rising and snow and frost days are declining. By 2050, average temperatures in the region are expected to increase by 3 to 5 degrees since 1951. The number of frost-free days increased by 16 days between 1951 and 2018. This National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) page summarizes Great Lakes region climate change headlines.
  4. At present, more affordable housing than many places in the US. According to Zillow, the average current home value in the Great Lakes region ranges from a high in Minnesota of $307,000 to a low in Ohio of $219,700. Most all Great Lakes states are ranked between 20th and 40th among US states.
body of water under blue and white skies
Photo by Matt Hardy on Pexels.com

There are also reasons that the idea of a climate haven or refuge might be too hyped:

  1. Per my past post, negative impacts of climate change on the Great Lakes. And some threats may grow faster or differently than anticipated – e.g. this summer’s Canadian wildfire smoke.
  2. Climate politics. This varies state to state in the region. Unfortunately, here in Ohio, policies from the current statehouse and governor have not been climate-friendly including a bill the governor jammed through in December 2022 redefining natural gas as a “green energy”.  
  3. Decaying infrastructure. Drinking water, sewer and stormwater management improvements are needed in many places. Illinois and Ohio lead the list of states with the largest number of lead water lines still in use. Investment is needed in properties to make them livable and strategy needed to keep housing affordable proportional to regional jobs.
  4. Economics. To attract new people who will stay, a wide range of job opportunities need to exist. Growing remote work opens up new avenues for some demographics but some Great Lakes economies remain fragile with the decades-long decline in manufacturing in the region.

I am grateful to live in this geographical region. There is an opportunity to attract a new generation of people seeking a stable, safe, livable place to settle. But for this to happen, there will need to be the vision, plan and political and popular will to prepare for it and reinvent ourselves and our way of living. I hope we find the courage to make this shift.

worms eyeview of green trees
Photo by Felix Mittermeier on Pexels.com
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When we moved to Cleveland in 2014 and I saw Lake Erie up close, one of the things that took me by surprise was the color of the water. Standing on shore and looking out in the summer months, in many places the most visible stretch of water has a gorgeous blue color – it can be close to a turquoise. I’ve now seen this color in Lake Michigan, and memorably in Lake Superior, as well.

The color of Great Lakes waters varies tremendously of course – season to season, day to day, even hour to hour depending on weather and lake conditions. It can have a steel color, a deep green-brown, a dark blue.

But the turquoise, gem-like blue is something that many people notice and comment on – usually with enthusiastic disbelief.  People who grew up on the shores of the Great Lakes in past decades describe returning to one now and finding clear water in remarkable shades of blue. 

People flying cross-country might even notice it from an airplane. A cousin of mine flying between the west coast and New York City described looking out the plane window and being completely disoriented.  “We didn’t know where we were!  It didn’t make sense that we were above the Carribbean!”

I’ve been reluctant to share with people what I have learned about that bright turquoise blue.  Unfortunately, this striking color and clarity is not a sign of lake health as we would be inclined to think.  Instead, as Dan Egan writes in The Death and Life of the Great Lakes, it’s a sign that “the life is being literally sucked out of the lakes”.

A write-up from a 2019 segment on Chicago’s WGN 9 TV station summarizes a number of key points.

Many people think that water appears blue due to the sky. There is an element of light and refraction that can impact the appearance of a body of water. But it’s also the case that water radiates blue.

Water color is impacted by things in the water. Algae, decaying material and sediment can all be churned up in the water causing a color to shift. 

It’s also impacted by things not in the water. In the case of the Great Lakes, it’s the absence of healthy algae that used to be omnipresent in the water that has lightened or made many of the lakes “more blue”. The criminals in this storyline are the zebra and quagga mussels that arrived in the lakes sometime around the late 1980s and have since spread relatively uncontested. In a stunning statistic, scientists say there are so many mussels in Lake Michigan that they can filter the entire volume of the lake in four to six days, and they have reduced the amount of light-absorbing algae by over 50%.

So now when I look down into the lake and see clear waters and white sandy bottoms, I feel a tug of mixed emotions: a socialized response of what is thought to be beautiful waterscape and an ecologist’s gut feeling that all is not as it should be.

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For centuries before the arrival of explorers and traders from Europe and the Far East around 1615, Indigenous peoples of many different tribes lived in the Great Lakes region. They were economically self-sustaining in their woodland and water environment. The earliest interactions with explorers and traders were dominated by fur-trading, and for over a century these interactions were mostly transactional. It was around the American Revolution that relations began to deteriorate as white settlers encroached on Indigenous lands. The power of disease and weaponry that white settlers brought killed and disempowered Indigenous peoples and eventually rendered most of the region under white authority.

It would be a disrespectful effort for me to try and acknowledge broadly the Indigenous peoples of the entire Great Lakes region; it would lump together an enormous swath of diverse peoples and histories. For more information on specifically acknowledging the Indigenous peoples of Northeast Ohio where I live, I turned to one of the most outstanding institutions in this region: the Cleveland Museum of Art.

I think that their Indigenous Peoples and Land Acknowledgement page along with the Q and A they include is thoughtful, respectful and directly states the obvious: land acknowledgements are often rightfully criticized for being too little, too late. However, for me, given a choice between saying “It is important to acknowledge those who lived on this land before me, many of whom lost their lives with European arrival and subsequent conquest of the land,” or saying “A land acknowledgement is an insincere, meaningless woke gesture”, I will choose the former.  I will choose it because it is the right thing to do.

The legacy of the people who lived on the land here for centuries prior to European arrival is omnipresent and yet often unrecognized. The name Ohio comes from an Onondowa’ga’ (Seneca) term meaning “beautiful river”. The Miami River and Miami University in Ohio are a direct reference to the Myaamia (Miami) peoples who lived in the region before forcibly signing away the right to their land.  

Here is my land acknowledgement, with credit to the Cleveland Museum of Art for the final two paragraphs: 

While today it is me standing on the shores of Lake Erie and looking out at the water and dark horizon line, for centuries prior there were others who stood and looked out at the same inland sea. Many of the Indigenous peoples who lived on this land were eventually dispossessed of it. Their existence has often been diminished to a short chapter in the arc of North American history, as it has been told by those with the power to craft the story. With my whole heart and mind, I acknowledge their own stories.   

These are the nations that signed Ohio treaties in the 1700s and 1800s: the Odawa, Ojibwe, and Potawatomi of the Anishinaabeg; Delaware; Seneca and Cayuga of the Haudenosaunee (Iroquois); Myaamia (Miami); Kaskasjia, Piankeshaw, and Wea, today of the Peoria; Shawnee; and Wyandotte – along with the Erie and ancient Whittlesey peoples.

These are the Indigenous peoples who continue to occupy land and urban spaces in Northeast Ohio today: the Choctaw, Dine (Navajo), Haudenosaunee (Iroquois), Lakota (Sioux), Odawa, and Ojibwe nations as well as others.

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