Great Lakes 101

We started our trip around the Great Lakes almost a year ago with a post about Lake Superior. We’ve moved from west to east, as the waters flow, through the largest freshwater system on earth. Today we’re moving to the final, easternmost lake, and the only one that does not border the state of Michigan – Lake Ontario.  

Lake Ontario is the smallest Great Lake by surface area, although only slightly smaller than Lake Erie. However, it is significantly deeper at an average of 283 feet (Erie’s average depth: 66 feet). This means that it has almost four times the volume of water of Lake Erie. This fact will be important for a future post about Toronto’s deep lake water cooling system. Stay tuned on that front!

Water comes into the lake from the Niagara River which famously drops over Niagara Falls. In the eastern basin of the lake, water flows out into the St. Lawrence River on its way to the Atlantic Ocean.

It’s thought that “Ontario” means “lake of shining waters” in the native Huron language. However, Lake Ontario lacks some of the physical and maritime beauty of some of the other Great Lakes. Several factors also make it the least productive commercial fishery of the Great Lakes.  

The dynamics of wind across Lake Ontario has a number of impacts. One is substantial lake effect snow which famously dumps snow on places like Syracuse, NY (the snowiest city in the United States). But another impact of the wind are some pocket areas of microclimates that allow for a vibrant wine industry – notably right near Niagara Falls.

The human and built world on Lake Ontario’s shores has several remarkable places. 

The first is Toronto which, with a population of around 2.9 million people, is the fourth largest city in North America. It’s a dynamic, bustling, global city. We had a terrific three days there in the summer of 2023 that I’ll share about in a future post. 

buildings near body of water at night

Little known fact: It’s said that Babe Ruth hit his first home run ever in 1914 out of a ballpark in Toronto and into Lake Ontario.

Across the lake, Rochester is New York’s third largest city. While the city has experienced economic challenges over the past half-century, it has a rich history in the fields of photography, xerography, and optics as the home of Eastman Kodak, Xerox and Bausch & Lomb among other companies.

Areas to the west of Rochester attract millions of visitors to see Niagara Falls. There are actually three water falls – Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. 3,160 tons of water flow over the three every second. Niagara Falls is the oldest state park in America. It opened in 1885 and over 8 million people visit every year.

waterfalls near gray paved road surrounded by green leaf trees during daytime

Some tourists make their way to Niagara-by-the-Lake, a popular summer destination at the mouth of the Niagara River with wineries and a well-known summer theater festival.

In my post on the Great Lakes as characters of the 1980s movie The Breakfast Club, I said that Lake Ontario would be like Brian Johnson as played by Anthony Michael Hall – the small and cerebral lake. But it has ambitions for something larger. As waters flow into the St. Lawrence River, the freshwater of the Great Lakes is ocean-bound. It will eventually meet the saltwater and will no longer be of the inland seas, but of the enormous expanse of the Atlantic Ocean.

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Today’s post is a challenge because there are multiple storylines converging. As I’m writing, I’m thinking about you, my readers, and wondering which storylines you will find interesting because I find many things interesting that not everyone does! I’ve been hearing about the looming danger of Asian carp since getting involved in Great Lakes environmental advocacy, but I know this topic may not be as familiar to many of you. 

What are Asian carp?

The term Asian carp generally refers to four invasive species of carp: bighead, silver, black and grass. These species were brought to the southern United States from Southeast Asia in the 1970s to help control algae and weeds in aquaculture ponds and wastewater treatment facilities. However, both flooding and accidental releases of the fish allowed them to get into local waterways. They made their way quickly into the Mississippi River system and have now spread across much of the US, including the Illinois River watershed. They are now wildly overpopulated in many waterways.

In November, 2021, the Illinois Department of Natural resources announced that it was proposing a new name for Asian carp: Copi. There were two reasons for the proposed name change. One was that in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, anti-Asian sentiment had turned more vitriolic and there was a desire to shift from unfairly associating another challenging issue with Asian countries and peoples. The other reason was a marketing ploy to encourage people and the food industry to purchase more Asian carp for consumption, essentially as an invasive species control mechanism. I will note that both the name Copi and the fish appearing on menus have been slow to gain traction.  

Why are they a problem?

The primary threat from Asian carp is competition with native species for food. They eat native species out of existence given that some carp can grow to up to four feet in length and and 100 pounds. Given their size, which I know sounds insane, a secondary threat is boat and person safety in and on waterways when they are present. Notably silver carp are so physical that they come flying out of the water and can impact boat stability, safety and navigation. Watch the first 30 seconds of this video clip as illustration. 

How can we keep them out of the Great Lakes?

The Great Lakes Fishery Commission, the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and Fisheries and Oceans Canada all take the position that the only way to preserve the Great Lakes fishery is to prevent the introduction of Asian carp into the lakes. The focal point to prevent arrival are the waterways in Illinois leading into Lake Michigan. 

It’s now that I link us to my last post on the waterways around Chicago. Asian carp have been seen as close as nine miles out from Lake Michigan in the Chicago River and their DNA has been traced to even closer but they have not yet been documented in the lake. The most specific focal point for keeping the carp out is the Brandon Road Lock and Dam on the Des Plaines River. While there are currently mechanisms in place to prevent the carp from getting past this juncture, they are a semi-coordinated effort. There have been plans for a more extensive project in the state and federal assessment and pipeline phase for several decades. 

What’s the recent good news?

In June, the Brandon Road Lock and Dam project’s funding plan was confirmed and approved to the tune of $1B and construction will start soon. The states of Illinois and Michigan will share 10% of this cost. This is a very low state cost-share and is critically enabling the project to move forward. The federal government, specifically the US Army Corps of Engineers, will cover 90% of the costs. 

The project will include air bubble curtains, electric barriers and acoustic deterrents. I heard a description from an expert at the Alliance for the Great Lakes and it literally sounds like a crazy elementary age child’s brainstorm – First we smother the fish with bubbles! Then we zap them with an electric shock! Then we deafen them with horrific noises!

But a science fair project this is not. What’s at stake is the $7B Great Lakes fishing industry as well as the tourism and recreation industry of the region. Let’s keep our fingers crossed and recognize with appreciation this enormous effort from our federal government to protect Great Lakes waters and people. 

If this storyline interests you, I highly recommend this article from Detroit Free Press about the danger of Asian carp and the Brandon Road Lock and Dam project.

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Over Labor Day weekend I accomplished another item on my Great Lakes summer intentions list. We were in Chicago for a family event but had a gap in the schedule Saturday afternoon and I made it to a Chicago area beach. We were in the northern suburbs so the closest beach was Tower Road Park and Beach in Winnetka. It was a beauty for sure. Colorful umbrellas and shade coverings dotted the wide swath of sand while boats puttered out into Lake Michigan from a nearby marina. There was a generous swimming area and playground on the beach.

Chicago’s size and expanse always impresses me whenever I visit. So much highway. So many surface roads. So many diners. There are just a heck of a lot of people living in and around the city (2.6 million in the city; 8.9 million in the metro area). All these people require a lot of built infrastructure to live, including clean water and sanitation systems. 

How Chicago managed to develop both of these for its growing population at the turn of the 20th century is one of the greatest engineering feats of its time. The flow of the Chicago River was fully reversed to prevent water polluted by industry and sewage from moving into Lake Michigan, which has always been Chicago’s drinking water source. I’m going to share the story this week because it’s incredible – but it also sets up my next post, which will be about one of the most important recent developments for the Great Lakes.

river between trees and city skyscrapers
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Prior to white settlers in the Chicago area, the Chicago River was a slow, somewhat unremarkable river that flowed through a soggy wetland. Two branches merged about a mile from Lake Michigan before flowing into the lake. In a twist of geographical fate, there is a ridge running north and south through what is now the Chicago metro area that created a subtle but crucial divide. Waters on the east side flowed east into the Chicago River and out into the lake and on the west side down into the Des Plaines River and eventually out to the Mississippi River and down into the Gulf of Mexico.

Starting in 1840 and extending through the Civil War, Chicago grew rapidly. Growing in parallel was Chicago’s enormous meat-packing industry. This industry contributed substantially to the pollution flowing into the river and out into Lake Michigan. By the 1880s, the situation was horrific. The river’s stench, drinking water contamination, and epidemics were constantly present. In 1886 a Citizen’s Association formed the Commission on Drainage and Water Supply. Eventually the Commission made several proposals to improve the situation, one of which was approved by the Illinois Legislature in 1889.

The proposal centered on building the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal. The canal would pull large amounts of water from Lake Michigan and, using a series of locks and dams, would shift the direction of the Chicago River, sending sewage out towards the Mississippi watershed while also creating a wider and deeper shipping channel that the Commission hoped might appease those downstream who were likely to be unhappy with the project.

The engineering required to build the canal throughout the 1890s is  beyond the scope of this post but it would not be too much to say that it was transformational. Equipment, tools and techniques developed in the process were replicated the world over, including in the construction of the Panama Canal. But the manpower required was also astronomical, and without question exploitative of recent immigrants and Blacks who were recruited or lured from the South to do the dangerous work. 

On January 2, 1900, a new century had dawned and with it came the initial intentional breach of a small dam holding water between the Chicago River and the new canal. It took two weeks for the canal to fill. On January 17, 1900, the controlling gates at Lockport, IL were opened, the Bear Trap Dam was lowered, and the river changed its course. The project had taken eight years from first shovel and had removed over 42 million cubic yards of soil and rock.

Technology can enable amazing things, like preserving drinking water for millions. But man-made solutions are not without environmental impacts, including sometimes wildly unexpected ones. Stay tuned for the next post to explore one directly related to the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal and the health of all of the Great Lakes.

Much of the content of today’s post came from a terrifically informative six-page write-up on the Chicago River’s history from the Metropolitan Water Reclamation District of the City of Chicago.

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I have a planning tool (a Trello board) where I keep track of blog post topics. There is one that I have had on my board for months, listed with an unknown date. It’s titled “Could Great Lakes water be piped?” and the entry includes notes from conversations I’ve had on the topic as a volunteer ambassador with the Alliance for the Great Lakes.

Well, this topic just got bumped up to the top of the list. On my Monday morning news scan, I picked up an Opinion piece in the New York Times by Dr. Jay Famiglietti titled “Will We Have to Pump the Great Lakes to California to Feed the Nation?”. Thanks to those of you who emailed or texted me the article as well!

white printer paper on white table
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When I first read it at 8 AM, there were 32 reader comments on the article. I was somewhat stunned when I revisited it at 2 PM that same day to see over 1,800 reader comments. This is a good deal of traction for an Opinion piece in that amount of time. I generally never read article comments but this was an incredibly lively thread.

Reading them gave me a dizzying array of reactions, thoughts and emotions. But the overwhelming one was a form of pride and general excitement about the energy in the conversation. There were tons of readers from the Great Lakes region saying in many different frames, “Not on my watch”.

Dr. Famiglietti’s main points in the article:

Key food producing regions of the US (far west Great Plains, California and the southwest) rely on groundwater for irrigation and groundwater is disappearing. 

In order to continue producing food in these areas, water “must” be piped from other parts of the country, including the Great Lakes.

Some places (e.g. California) are trying to manage their groundwater, but it’s not clear whether that management is effective. There are other places (e.g. Arizona) that are engaging in minimal groundwater management.

The US does not have plans for the food scarcity that would result. This food scarcity would impact us all – not just those living in the west.

There would be massive challenges to considering a pipeline for water in regards to complexity, cost, politics and environmental disruption. 

There needs to be a national water policy that would support systematic exploration and management of groundwater.

sprinkling of grass land during dawn
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Dr. Famiglietti actually makes some important points regarding food systems and national water policy that I think he buries with the headline about pumping the Great Lakes. I was left wondering if he was seriously focused on the idea of piping Great Lakes water, or was using it to attract attention to the magnitude of the issue. If he is serious, there were two key facts missing from the article from my point of view:

The first was repeatedly jumped on by many commenters. There was NO mention in the article of the fact that the Great Lakes sit squarely across the US-Canadian border. This felt like sort of a stunning oversight. The waters are governed by international treaties. I don’t see Canada being down for this idea.

flag of canada
Photo by Social Soup Social Media on Pexels.com

The second key fact missing was clarity that, at this time, the Great Lakes waters are protected by The Great Lakes Compact. The Compact was signed into federal law in 2008 and it bans the diversion of water outside of the geographical basin of the lakes other than in very limited scenarios. The geographical region that can pull water from the Great Lakes is quite limited in some places. We have friends living 10 miles further out from Cleveland who are outside of the basin.   

Now, federal law can change. And with the growth of the US population in the south and southwest, it would not be a shock (does anything shock us anymore??) to see elected officials from these areas push for policy revision, but it would be a long, drawn-out political fight. Beyond that, the price tag for the infrastructure required to transport water, a very heavy substance, would also be unfathomable.

So what should we do? There seem to be a number of avenues that need further collective examination, attention, and action:

National water policy that includes groundwater management;

Changes in farming practices; 

Changes in what we eat; 

Continued efforts to identify technological innovations in desalinization as well as pulling atmospheric water to a usable state.

What are the first steps for any of us individually? Learn more about the issue and intentionally decide what we spend our money on, where we invest it, who to vote for, and how to spend time that we can on civic or political issues and activism. 

water drop
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In my early post on the Great Lakes as the characters of the iconic 80s movie The Breakfast Club, I described my home lake, Lake Erie, as the black sheep of the lakes. 

If an average American with some basic knowledge of the Great Lakes was asked about Lake Erie, their response would likely be negative, perhaps thinking of it as “the worst” of the Great Lakes. Fires at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River. Algal blooms that create toxic conditions in the western basin of the lake. Water pollution from declining industrial cities like Buffalo, Cleveland and Toledo.  

All of these things are a part of Lake Erie’s history and, to some degree, part of its current reality. However, they paint an overly-dark picture of the lake to the detriment of recognizing significantly positive developments, assets and resources.

Lake Erie was recently named by USA Today’s 10Best as THE top lake in the United States as nominated by industry experts, vetted by the 10Best editors, and voted on by readers. A note that I think the “in the United States” is a bit misleading since over half of Lake Erie’s coastline is in Canada, but the US coastline lies along places that can certainly use the positive marketing – western New York, Erie, PA area, Ohio and a touch of southeastern Michigan. 

Map of the great lakes and st lawrence river drainage aregions

Lake Erie is the southernmost Great Lake. It is also the shallowest with an average depth of 62 feet. Compare that with 279 feet for Lake Michigan or 483 feet for Lake Superior. The lake has 871 miles of shoreline with 14 million people living near the lake basin. 11 million people get their drinking water from Lake Erie. Water flows generally from the west and the Detroit River to the east, into the Welland Canal and Niagara River before dropping off Niagara Falls towards Lake Ontario. 

Given its shallow nature, it is the warmest Great Lake. A positive of its warmth is that it is the most biologically productive of all the Great Lakes. The lake’s fish population accounts for approximately 50% of all fish inhabiting the Great Lakes. Native species include steelhead, walleye, smallmouth bass, and perch. Introduced species include rainbow smelt, common carp, and rainbow trout. The commercial fishing industry is mostly located on northern shores in Ontario while recreational fishing can be found across the lake.

It isn’t wrong to associate Lake Erie with the industrial cities along its shoreline. It is the Great Lake that has been exposed to the greatest effects from agriculture, industrialization, and urbanization. The lake has played a leading role in the steel industry, with raw materials shipped around the lake to cities like Detroit, Toledo and Erie. Waste from steel and other industries was dumped into the lake or its watershed for decades. The lake hit a low point in the 1960s when many beaches and shorelines were closed due to pollution.

However, it was the fire on the Cuyahoga River in 1969 (over the years there were actually many fires) that launched the political and environmental effort that inspired the seminal Clean Water Act of 1972. Lake Erie obviously benefited from increased regulation after its passage, and the lake’s health has generally improved since the late 1970s.

Those of you who read my blog consistently know that I have many locations along Lake Erie that hold special meaning to me. Some are visually beautiful, some of them are maybe less stunning. But they all provide me with a feeling of deep connection and perspective about my place in the world. When you stand looking out at an unending expanse of water, limits and boundaries seem to disappear, while simultaneously the sheer scope of the natural world whispers to you something that I find critical for my self-conception: You are essential, but you are also only a small element of something much bigger than yourself. Do not lose sight of this.

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For 16 months I have been blogging about my interests, learnings, and experiences with the Great Lakes. Today I’m sharing about a recent decision made after much thought and deliberation.

I have lived a life of the “joy of missing out” regarding social media (JOMO – this is actually a thing). I don’t particularly like social media. I have a lot of concerns about the way that it is shaping the human experience.

However, looking back at my 39 blog posts, my experiences as an Ambassador with the Alliance for the Great Lakes, and conversations with friends and family, I think that I have important and worthwhile messages to share about the Great Lakes and this region.

In my first post on February 8, 2023, I stated that: “The goal of my blog is to inspire love and respect for the Great Lakes. They are, simply, one of the most tremendous natural resources on earth.”

This is absolutely true, and environmental advocacy remains one of my main goals. However, I’ve realized there’s another goal of my blog, and that is economic development. We need more young people to stay or move here to the Great Lakes region. I find myself motivated by the idea of inspiring others to see that you can make a good life here.

I’m not going to lean too heavily into the selling point of the region as a climate refuge; see my post on this debate and a separate one on the impact of climate change on the Great Lakes. But we do have a moderating climate, less weather disasters, and a heck of a lot of freshwater compared to some other regions of the country.

The Great Lakes region needs to shed the declining rust belt reputation and birth a new one. We need to restore dignity to the place and the people. I believe the lakes themselves can help do this. 

Social media platforms offer the tools to share these messages, especially if I want to reach the 18-50 year old demographic. I talked through my hesitations about taking my Great Lakes content to social media with one of my best friends. Her subtly brilliant response: Maybe consider social media. The Great Lakes would certainly thank you for doing it.

You know what? I think they would. 

I think that if they could tweet, post, or share, the Great Lakes’ message would be: 

We have been here and will be here. 

We have something good, and pure, to offer the world. 

Come see us. We’d love to see you.

If you are social media engaged, please now follow me and share my content on Instagram at loveourgreatlakes.

#loveourgreatlakes; #greatlakes; #greatlakesrevisited; #greatlakeslove; #greatlakesstates 

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I think that if many people were asked “Is Detroit a Great Lakes city?” their response would be a confident “Yes!”. But if then asked, “What Great Lake is it on?”, confidence in their answer might wane. In fact, if their familiarity with the region or mental geography is limited, they may become stumped. Because the answer is that Detroit is not on one of the Great Lakes. But it does sit on water that is part of the Great Lakes system (remember – the largest freshwater system on earth!).

We’re moving on today from Lake Huron-Lake Michigan (remember – technically one body of water!), to Lake Erie. But we’re making a stop along the way in Detroit on the banks of the Detroit River, a 28 mile straight ushering water south and west to the mouth of Lake Erie. The water is flowing at origin from Lake Huron, down the St. Clair River and into Lake St. Clair and then into the Detroit River.

wide angle photography of city near body of water
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The Detroit River is a significant stretch of international border between the United States and Canada. There are currently two automobile crossings, the Ambassador Bridge and the Detroit-Windsor Tunnel, managed by border agencies on both sides. More than 40,000 people cross the border each day.

In the early part of the 20th century, the Detroit River was one of the busiest commercial waterways on earth with the rise of the auto industry in Detroit. In 1907 the river moved 67 million tons of shipping commerce out to destinations around the world. By comparison, New York City moved about 20 million tons that year. 

But decades before automobiles were built and started crossing the Detroit River, it was a different crossing. It was a  final stop for many routes on the Underground Railroad. Code name “Midnight”, Detroit was the most active entry point along the US-Canada border for enslaved people escaping to freedom.

There were several reasons for this:

  1. Slavery was outlawed in Michigan, and by the 1830s Detroit had developed an established Black population, some of whom courageously accepted the profound risks of assisting enslaved people;
  2. By 1833 Canada had declared that enslaved people could not be extradited to be returned to their owners and granted legal immigration status to Blacks, making it the closest thing possible to freedom; 
  3. The river is relatively narrow and shallow, making it navigable by even smaller boats, although winter months would have been a perilous trip.

Second Baptist Church of Detroit and the First Baptist Church of Amherstburg on the Canadian side of the river coordinated many of the crossings. The basement of the Second Baptist Church was likely the last place in America that some enslaved people spent time before leaving for Canada. You can arrange for a tour of the church. Across the river, 30 minutes south of Windsor, is the Amherstburg Freedom Museum which consists of a church and a log cabin built by people who escaped slavery via the underground railroad.

The last steps to freedom for many people were actually a distance covered on the waters of the Great Lakes.    

white and brown bird near body of water under blue sky at daytime
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As a native of the Washington, DC area and relative urban and suburban life, until recently, my depth of familiarity with maritime life, resources and economies was truly slim. I will be honest in having a hazy understanding of the word fishery, hatchery, or what was meant when mentioning the work of fish management. While my knowledge is still not deep, I have learned much more through my Great Lakes exploration of the past three years.

Here is the mission of the Fish and Aquatic Conservation program of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service: We are committed to tackling the nation’s highest priority aquatic conservation and recreational challenges to conserve, restore, and enhance fisheries for future generations.

My lack of clarity around the word fishery is actually understandable. The word is used in a number of different, and sometimes inconsistent, ways. According to Wikipedia, Fishery can mean either the enterprise of raising or harvesting fish and other aquatic life or, more commonly, the site where such enterprise takes place (a.k.a., fishing grounds). Commercial fisheries include wild fisheries and fish farms, both in freshwater water bodies (about 10% of all catch) and the oceans (about 90%).

Last post I shared about the infamous, massive alewife die-off of 1967 in Lake Michigan waters and shores. I ended with the question: What did they do about it?

In this case the “they” ends up being the Michigan Department of Conservation. And what they did was initiate one of the largest bioengineering endeavors of all time. States around the Great Lakes agreed to introduce coho and Chinook salmon from the Pacific Ocean into the lakes to bring the alewife population under control. It was a successful effort to redesign the Great Lakes fishery. Alewives were back to more controlled numbers by 1971.

person holding raw fish
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Introducing salmon was the brainchild of Dr. Howard Tanner. In The Life and Death of the Great Lakes, Dan Egan writes a riveting chapter about Tanner – his environmental management expertise, his love for Michigan and the Great Lakes, his vision, and his streak of independent decision-making fostered by his time as a soldier in World War II.

As head of the Michigan Department of Conservation, he led the effort to introduce salmon in 1966. Biologists had already recognized the overpopulation of alewives by that time. Just one year later, by the fall of 1967, millions of salmon offspring appeared in Lake Michigan. The salmon grew large and heavy on the alewife diet. It created a frenzy of recreational fishing. Egan describes it memorably: “It was as if all the skiers in Michigan awoke one morning to find that their little hills had been replaced by the Rocky Mountains.” Recreational fishermen who had dreamed of one day fishing out West for salmon literally found them leaping out of the waters of Lake Michigan. Word spread of “coho fever”. Beyond successfully controlling the alewife population, the effort created a recreational boom in sport fishing and a new constituency of people invested in the Great Lakes. 

photo of man fishing
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The Great Lakes have been known as a world class salmon fishery ever since. However, some danger signs have been flashing over the past thirty years. Nature constantly brings our attention back to cycles and interconnectedness – and sometimes seems to enjoy a little irony on the side. The alewife population is now dwindling.  And in dwindling, it may take the salmon with it given that they rely almost exclusively on alewives as their diet. That much despised little silver fish has been revisited, recognized, and respected for its role in the Great Lakes fishery.

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In early July 2022 we drove to Northern Michigan to drop our older daughter off at summer camp for two weeks. For the weekend we stayed at a house about 25 miles east of Ludington. My husband and I drove up into Ludington State Park on the shores of Lake Michigan. As we drove in, gorgeous white sand dunes lined the road. It was early evening, so a transition time with beachgoers emerging from trails through the dunes, colorful umbrellas, chairs and towels in hand, headed back to their cars.

Ludington State Park (MI), Lake Michigan, July 2022

We parked and got out of the car to walk out on the beach. We were immediately greeted by what I can only describe as, frankly, a strong, unpleasant odor. Putrid is too strong a word, but it was fishy, and rotten. We walked over a dune path and emerged on the beach. The view was incredibly picturesque – gorgeous wide white sand beach and cottonball clouds. But a quick stroll closer to the water revealed the source of the smell – there was a band of dead, washed up small, silver fish stretching down the beach in both directions.  

These fish are alewives, and wash-up like this is, somewhat unfortunately, not an uncommon occurrence on the shores of some Great Lakes. The history of the issue is well-explained in Dan Egan’s book The Death and Life of the Great Lakes that I refer to time and time again. It’s a story of ecological imbalance.

River herring are a species well known to east coast North Americans for centuries. They hatch in the rivers flowing into the Atlantic and then head into saltwater for much of their life before heading back to the freshwater to spawn. 

River herring were first found in Lake Ontario in the late 1800s. It’s unknown how they got there – whether they made their way on their own through the St. Lawrence River or accessed it through the canals dug at the end of that century. For several decades they lived in some ecological balance as the Atlantic salmon and lake trout were natural predators. But once the evolving commercial fishing industry ramped up and overfishing of salmon and trout became an issue, the river herring became massively overpopulated. By 1931 they had been found in Lake Erie and by 1954 in the waters of all Great Lakes. 

The Great Lakes river herring quickly evolved to be a smaller, toothless version of the East Coast river herring. They lacked natural predators, and quickly came to dominate the fish mass of the lakes, especially Lake Michigan, where by 1965 they were likely 90 percent of the lake’s fish mass. By this point they had also come to take on another name – alewives. 

My dad was living in Chicago in the summer of 1967 when the city experienced the most infamous alewife happening of all time. There was essentially a massive die-off of alewives that dumped billions of fish carcasses on the shores of Lake Michigan around Chicago. 30 miles of shoreline were “smothered”, as Egan writes, by piles of decaying fish sometimes shin deep. The cost of management and clean-up in Chicago was pegged at $50 million – $350 million in 2017 dollars. The price tag across the entire summer and all the shores impacted: close to $1 billion in 2017 dollars. 

To most people, the die off was seen, and smelled, along the shore. However, in the water, there were reports of piles of carcasses at the bottom of the lake over 6 feet high and live schools of the fish were so thick that boaters described running into one being like running into a snowbank.

What happened?  

The reason turns out to be to be biological maladaptation. The fact that the alewives, originally saltwater fish, were able to live in the freshwaters of the Great Lakes didn’t mean that they were able to thrive. Their bodies simply didn’t work well due to the lack of salt. They experienced kidney stress, stunted thyroid activity, and an inability to handle the dramatic water temperature changes the Great Lakes can experience. But their mere survival had thrown Lake Michigan completely off-balance with no real predators to keep the population in check.

So what did they do about it? Stay tuned for Part 2 of the story in my next post. 

Photo from Whiting Robertsdale Historical Society

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Perhaps because it is the only Great Lake with all of its shoreline in the United States, Lake Michigan seems to hold a special place in many hearts and minds. 

There are lots of impressive stats to share. Lake Michigan is the second largest Great Lake by volume and the third largest by surface area. It has the world’s largest collection of freshwater sand dunes. Area surrounding the lake is home to over 12 million people, including Chicago, the largest city on the Great Lakes.

Indiana Dunes National Park from Conde Nast

The word “Michigan” is believed to derive from indigenous words meaning “great water” or “big lake”. These include “mishigamaa” or “mishigamaw” in Algonquin “meicigama” in Chippewa and “mishigami” in Ojibwa.

A road trip around Lake Michigan would offer almost too many fantastic stops to list. This itinerary from the roadtrippers site starts in Milwaukee and then heads north towards Door County, Wisconsin, “the Cape Cod of the Midwest”. 

Heading north from Wisconsin leads into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (UP), which you know I love for its wildness, quirkiness and solitude (and Joe Pera!). After driving eastward on the UP, the route drops you back into Michigan’s Mitten via the Mackinac Bridge.

the straits of mackinac under the mackinac bridge
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The route from there takes you south through beautiful shoreline and quaint, picturesque towns – Charlevoix, Petoskey, Traverse City, and Sleeping Bear Dunes area before landing down on Michigan’s weekend escape towns like South Haven and Saugatuck. Westerly winds blow surface water to the east, making the water on these east coast destinations on the lake warmer in summer months.

At the southern end of the lake one finds a relatively unknown gem – the 45 miles of Indiana’s Lake Mighigan shoreline, which includes Indiana Dunes National Park

From there, the route will take you up into Chicago. When one thinks of Chicago, the sprawling built city comes to mind. And maybe deep dish pizza or hot dogs? But make no mistake – the city is inextricably connected with Lake Michigan. In the warmer weather, it really is a beach town with crowds of people at Oak Street Beach, Rainbow Beach and Park and North Avenue Beach. All year round, you can walk and bike miles along Lake Shore Drive or visit Navy Pier’s myriad attractions, food and programs.

photo of city buildings near river
Photo by Amit Thakral on Pexels.com

I would venture to guess that many of you have spent time on Lake Michigan. If you have a favorite memory or place or a hidden gem, I’d love to hear about it! Reply to my newsletter or drop me a message through the website!

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