December 2023

Our tour of the Great Lakes continues today. We’re going to move eastward, from the deep, cold, expansive waters of Lake Superior, dropping down into Lake Huron.  

The first weekend of November, my older daughter and I went away for quiet time together. I wanted one more Great Lakes adventure before the winter settled in, and I really hadn’t seen Lake Huron other than acknowledging it as we passed over the Mackinac Bridge to the Upper Peninsula in July 2022. Many people don’t realize that Lake Huron and Lake Michigan are essentially one body of water, joined at the Straits of Mackinac which you cross on the bridge. Lake Huron is the second-largest of the Great Lakes by surface area but has the longest shoreline, creating an incredibly diverse geography to be explored in a future post.

I wanted to see the sunrise over Lake Huron. With off-season pricing, we rented a small house right on the waters of Saginaw Bay, a little over a four hour drive from Cleveland. 

Saturday morning, we didn’t get much sun. It was cloudy and overcast at dawn. A weather pattern had churned up the water; the visible and audible effect was every bit inland sea with waves rolling onto the small strip of sand in front of the house patio. My daughter was undeterred by the lack of a picturesque sunrise. Sometimes we don’t get sun. Sometimes we get clouds. We can still find joy from huddling together under a blanket, or romping around on the sand, looking at driftwood. We can still look out, beyond, and know that above the clouds, the sun has brought light and another day.

As I look to 2024, I sit with gratitude for some personal and family milestones that will be reached over the year. But I also sit with a heavy heart and an undercurrent of unease while thinking about our global and national realities. 

As former President Barack Obama once said though, “No matter what happens, the sun will rise in the morning”. And some days it will look like it did the next day, on Sunday morning, November 5, 2023. Simply nothing short of a magical gift.

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While I have shared pictures mostly of calm Great Lakes waters, the late fall and early winter each year brings a reminder: The inland seas are dangerous. Since 1979 there are records of over 8,000 boats and thousands of lives lost on the lakes. One of the most recent, famous, and mysterious wrecks was that of the SS Edmund Fitzgerald in the waters of Lake Superior. 

The “Fitz” was, when it launched in 1958, the largest ship on the Great Lakes at 729 feet long. It mostly carried iron ore from mines near Duluth, Minnesota to iron factories in Detroit and Toledo.

The ship left Superior, Wisconsin at 4:30 PM on November 9, 1975 bound eventually for Toledo, Ohio. By late that night, conditions had changed from what had been predicted. A storm turned into a November gale with waves greater than 35 feet high reported and near hurricane force winds. A November gale, also sometimes called the November witch, is caused by low atmospheric pressure over the Great Lakes pulling cold arctic air from Canada and warm air from the south. When these two collide they can create substantial, dangerous wind conditions. 

The Fitzgerald remained  in contact with another ship, the Arthur M. Anderson, once the storm started. The Fitzgerald came in and out on the radar. The afternoon of November 10th, it reported that two vents were damaged and the boat was taking on water, but said both pumps were working. At 7:10 PM Captain Ernest M. McSorley communicated “we are holding our own”. But by 7:15, the Fitzgerald disappeared from the radar and never reappeared. All 29 people on board were lost including 15 from Ohio. The wreckage was eventually found about 17 miles from Whitefish Bay and the Sault Ste. Marie area. 

The cause of the wreck remains unknown. The boat lies 530 feet below the surface making exploration and investigation hard. The most common theories from government agencies and industry organizations: (1) The boat “shoaled” on an underwater mountain range, essentially scraping itself and potentially incurring more damage than the crew was aware of; (2) The boat experienced leaking hatches (doors) from faulty or improperly closed clamps; (3) The boat experienced hatch damage caused by unknown debris. 

The event was memorialized and inscribed into cultural knowledge by Canadian singer Gordon Lightfoot, who was inspired to write his hit “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” after reading a Newsweek magazine article about the shipwreck. After the wreck, new regulations and policies were put in place for Great Lakes ships including mandatory survival suits, increased freeboard (height between water level and deck), depth finders and more frequent inspections.

May we keep the memory of the ship and those lost.

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